In Montreal, where are all the late-night food options?

A vibrant nightlife is about more than just places to drink and dance. You need the occasional late-night nibble as well.

Depending on your neighbourhood of choice, there was once a time in the not-too-distant past when options were plentiful for those looking to grab a bite before hitting the hay.

After a soiree with your U de M pals, there was Blanche Neige on Côte-des-Neiges Rd. Coming out of the clubs on St-Laurent Blvd.? You could head upstairs to the Main for a poutine, a smoked meat, or a poutine topped with smoked meat. Just missed the “vomit comet” at Atwater Station back to the West Island? Moe’s Diner had a warm seat waiting for you. N.D.G. lifers used to bob the bowl of pakoras at D.A.D.’s Bagels or enjoy all-day breakfast at an ungodly hour at Picasso’s. The demise of these spots still hurts.

But it’s not all bad news for the nocturnal noshers. Old standbys like La Banquise and the big-name burger joints still cater to the cravings of the post-clubbing crowd, as does sweet, dependable Boustan when the chow mein window isn’t hitting like it should.

Beyond brick and mortar, there still exists an entire ecosystem of restos slinging grub past the witching hour. Like most things these days, they’re on my phone.

And what’s on my phone’s delivery apps, beyond the aforementioned household brands, are the ghost kitchens making mystery meals for when desperation really sinks in.

Sure, there’s the convenience of a delivery that hits your doorstep before you get home, but the result remains the same: eating a lukewarm meal in relative silence. Sometimes you want to keep the party going. Sometimes you want to cap a great night with friends by squeezing into a diner booth and chowing down on something greasy while the ringing in your ears subsides. Try as they might, the apps can’t recreate that lasting experience.

So what happened? Why are there fewer options for late-night eating in Montreal beyond the Golden Arches and the Burger Family?

Like most things, the pandemic delivered a knockout blow to the thankless business of serving night owls.

When places like La Ligne Rouge on Jean-Talon St. and Chez Claudette on Laurier Ave. E. emerged from the other side of social distancing and curfews, their working hours got a little more manageable.

Places that never closed suddenly started closing.

One such place is Dunn’s Famous on Metcalfe St. It was literally one of those mythical spots, according to owner Elliot Kligman, where the front door didn’t even have a lock on it. It’s still open very late, but if you roll up at 5 a.m. — and hey, it happens sometimes — you’ll be out of luck.

As Dunn’s approaches its centennial in 2027, even this venerable brand has had to adapt to the times.

“COVID woke us up a little bit. We probably should have taken a few steps back before then,” Kligman said.

Ironically enough, it was the brunch explosion — and not a lack of late-night interest — that did Dunn’s sunrise schedule in.

“It was the breakfast game that changed a lot in Montreal, with a lot of new players, and suddenly there wasn’t really a market for the $5 to $6 breakfast that we used to do. By closing between 5 and 11 a.m., it gave us a chance to prepare for the meat and potatoes of the business, which is the lunch rush and beyond.”

Interest around last call, Kligman explained, hasn’t waned.

“You come here at two o’clock in the morning and they’re still lined up outside the door of the restaurant.”

Another theory as to why late-night eats are becoming endangered in Montreal — difficulty finding staff willing to deal with the drunks — was somewhat debunked by Kligman, who observed that some people are simply more comfortable working nights, and he still has a few staffers who only work late by choice.

Some places were so sure that they would remain open 24 hours in perpetuity, they included it on their signage. That’s the case for Dizz’s Bagel and Deli on Côte-St-Luc Rd., which closes these days at 11 p.m. despite a sign that suggests otherwise.

“We’re not going to go back to being open 24 hours. It’s just not worth it for us,” said Dizz’s manager, Jeff Greenblatt.

The beloved bagel spot has a more personal reason for turning off the lights before midnight these days: They had one employee who covered the night shift and after they passed away, it didn’t make sense to continue.

“We used to see more activity at night,” Greenblatt added. “But even before COVID, habits started changing and we were starting to see less foot traffic. It kept the oven going at all times, but now there’s no reason to keep it going.”

There’s also the obvious cause and effect at play here: As Montreal’s nightlife scene in general fights for its life in the face of rising costs, neighbourly noise complaints and declining drinking habits among the youth, the need for eateries at night has softened as well.

Perhaps all these iconic spots are destined to go the way of Ben’s, and our collective fate is to munch on reheated ghost kitchen fries in the dark.

Until that sad day arrives, don’t go to bed with a rumble in your stomach. Go out and support your local late-night eatery.