Montreal melon, once thought to be all but gone, makes long-awaited comeback

A once sought-after fruit that was a favorite among society's elites in Montreal is making a much-anticipated return.

The Montreal melon, which was highly prized over a century ago, commanded a steep price for those fortunate enough to afford even a slice. Now, a local community group is working to revive this piece of history and bring its unique flavor back to the city.

"It was sold for one or two dollars a slice," explained Justine Senechal, project lead at Blue Bonnets Gardens, in a recent interview. "In today’s money, that’s about 35 dollars a slice, which is crazy to think about. It was truly a luxury item."

Grown along the St. Lawrence River in the 1800s, the Montreal melon thrived in the city's fertile farmlands and was beloved not just by locals but also by aristocrats in New York, Boston, and Philadelphia.

The exact reason for the melon’s popularity remains unclear, but Senechal noted, "a lot of people made a very good living growing it here."

However, as farmland was overtaken by industrial development, the once-renowned fruit all but vanished by the 1920s. The non-profit organization Community Cafeteria MultiCaf noted that production ceased, and the seeds were lost.

In 1996, a journalist from the Montreal Gazette discovered some Montreal melon seeds in an Iowa seed bank, sparking renewed efforts to bring the melon back. Blue Bonnets Gardens is leading the current initiative, planting seeds at the old horse-racing track where the melons were likely grown during their heyday.

The organization is now working to identify the best seeds and cultivate a crop of delicious Montreal melons. In late August, they held a tasting event where locals could sample the fruit.

Gabrielle Fleury, one of the attendees, described the melon as soft and sweet. "My parents were visiting, and I thought it would be fun to go. It’s a unique experience, a piece of local history," she said.

For Pierre Cardinal, the tasting was deeply personal. His grandfather had been a Montreal melon farmer, but this was the first time Cardinal had ever tasted the fruit. "I’m very emotional," he shared, noting that the flavor matched the way his father had always described it.

Next year, the urban farmers plan to replant the seeds from the tastiest crop, aiming to cultivate the best possible Montreal melon. This time, the fruit won't be reserved for the wealthy, but will be donated to a local food bank.

"We’re bringing it back for everyone. It’s such an important part of Montreal’s history," Senechal said.